Like this monkey, I am loving Thailand's abundance of fresh watermelon and pineapple. Dragonfruit and papaya... not so much. Those fruits manage to taste bad and taste like nothing.
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
Monkey Bay
Like this monkey, I am loving Thailand's abundance of fresh watermelon and pineapple. Dragonfruit and papaya... not so much. Those fruits manage to taste bad and taste like nothing.
Patong Beach, Phuket Island
From Phi Phi Island, Kelly and I took the ferry to Phuket on Monday. Phuket is Thailand's largest island, sometimes referred to as "Bangkok on the Sea" (yuck). It is connected to the mainland by bridge, and it feels like any other big Thai city. It definitely doesn't have the mellow island vibe of the other beaches we've visited. Kelly stayed long enough to catch the sunset on Patong Beach, then she headed to the Phuket airport to fly to Bangkok and start the long journey back to Boston.
I said goodbye to Kelly at 9pm and greeted my friend Caroline at 10:30pm. Caroline is an Irish girl that I met in NZ. She lived in Thailand for a few months in 2007 and now she's back for another year to teach English. I was hoping her visit and Kelly's visit would overlap a bit because I think they'd enjoy each other. Alas, Caroline's arrival was delayed by 6+ hours due to... what else... a motorbike accident! Her friend's tire blew during the commute to the pier. No one was injured, but she missed the morning ferry to Phuket. Some directional miscommunication also contributed to the delay. Who knew there were 2 guesthouses named "Lucky's" within a one block radius??
Caroline planned to show me the "real" Phuket, but for a variety of reasons, we haven't left the Patong Beach area in the last 2 days. Patong is a relatively small section of island, but it is one of the biggest tourist areas in Thailand. Never come here. It is gross. The streets are like ThaiVegas and the beach is like Wildwood. Bangla Road is lined with flashing lights, discos, dancers, etc. There is Hard Rock A Go-Go, Sexy Lady A Go-Go, Anything You Want A Go-Go... Other than Pattaya, this is the main tourist sex spot. The place is teeming with old, fat Western men with very young Thai girls. It makes my stomach turn. Although I have to admit it makes for good people watching.
The beach itself is just okay. It's big and very crowded (and this is the low season). You can rent a lounge chair for 100 baht ($3 US) a day, but they are crammed together like sardines. The water is brownish compared to the crystal clear seas on the other islands. You're also hounded by touts all day. They walk up and down the beach saying, "buy something, buy something." Sunbathe at your own risk because parasailers fly dangerously close to your head.
A man approached Caroline and I last night and asked, "Do you girls like to party and listen to rock 'n roll music?" He was trying to sell us tickets to a party at the Phuket Rock Bar. AC/DC and Bon Jovi were going to play (cover bands he clarified, lest I think the real Jon Bon Jovi was hanging out in Patong). He promised us a "completely westernized bar... no ladyboys, no chicks with d***s, no dudes with boobs, no one tapping you on the shoulder trying to sell something." The price of the ticket included a group photo. He showed us a copy of the previous night's photo to prove that the place admits only drunk white people. Riiiight... isn't this why everyone comes to Thailand??
Note: These pictures make Patong look better than it is. I'll try to post more accurate pictures later.
I said goodbye to Kelly at 9pm and greeted my friend Caroline at 10:30pm. Caroline is an Irish girl that I met in NZ. She lived in Thailand for a few months in 2007 and now she's back for another year to teach English. I was hoping her visit and Kelly's visit would overlap a bit because I think they'd enjoy each other. Alas, Caroline's arrival was delayed by 6+ hours due to... what else... a motorbike accident! Her friend's tire blew during the commute to the pier. No one was injured, but she missed the morning ferry to Phuket. Some directional miscommunication also contributed to the delay. Who knew there were 2 guesthouses named "Lucky's" within a one block radius??
Caroline planned to show me the "real" Phuket, but for a variety of reasons, we haven't left the Patong Beach area in the last 2 days. Patong is a relatively small section of island, but it is one of the biggest tourist areas in Thailand. Never come here. It is gross. The streets are like ThaiVegas and the beach is like Wildwood. Bangla Road is lined with flashing lights, discos, dancers, etc. There is Hard Rock A Go-Go, Sexy Lady A Go-Go, Anything You Want A Go-Go... Other than Pattaya, this is the main tourist sex spot. The place is teeming with old, fat Western men with very young Thai girls. It makes my stomach turn. Although I have to admit it makes for good people watching.
The beach itself is just okay. It's big and very crowded (and this is the low season). You can rent a lounge chair for 100 baht ($3 US) a day, but they are crammed together like sardines. The water is brownish compared to the crystal clear seas on the other islands. You're also hounded by touts all day. They walk up and down the beach saying, "buy something, buy something." Sunbathe at your own risk because parasailers fly dangerously close to your head.
A man approached Caroline and I last night and asked, "Do you girls like to party and listen to rock 'n roll music?" He was trying to sell us tickets to a party at the Phuket Rock Bar. AC/DC and Bon Jovi were going to play (cover bands he clarified, lest I think the real Jon Bon Jovi was hanging out in Patong). He promised us a "completely westernized bar... no ladyboys, no chicks with d***s, no dudes with boobs, no one tapping you on the shoulder trying to sell something." The price of the ticket included a group photo. He showed us a copy of the previous night's photo to prove that the place admits only drunk white people. Riiiight... isn't this why everyone comes to Thailand??
Note: These pictures make Patong look better than it is. I'll try to post more accurate pictures later.
Warning
These Thai signs are the type of thing I would expect to see in New Zealand. Slow, slow, slow your boat, or you may end up kissing a fish!
Phi Phi Viewpoint
We climbed 1000 feet and many hundreds of stairs to reach the Phi Phi Lookout. It was HOT. The funny thing is that we started the morning being very lazy. The walk from the breakfast buffet back to our hotel room to retrieve our towels sounded too taxing, so we decided to buy new sarongs on our way to the lookout. You can see that all of the development on Phi Phi is on one very narrow strip of land. From this vantage point, it's easy to visualize how a tsunami could wipe the place out.From the lookout, we then hiked down the other side of the mountain to a more remote beach area called Rantee Bay. I would not have done this if I knew how strenuous it would be. There was not much of a path and bikinis and flip-flops were not appropriate attire. It was really steep in places and there wasn't much to grab onto. We walked through clouds of mosquitoes and piles of ants. If I end up with a tropical disease, it will have been contracted there. When we finally reached the beach, we jumped right into the water.
There was no way we were climbing back up that mountain so we took a longboat taxi back to the "town" pier. This is the main mode of transportation on the islands... a cheap and easy way to get from point A to point B and it's also very scenic!
*Illustrated* Island of the Living Dead
By popular demand, here is a pictorial version of the previous blog post.
4 stitches and still looking good!
We had a lovely afternoon snorkeling trip to Koh Phi Phi Leh, including Maya Bay - site of the Leonardo DiCaprio movie "The Beach."
Returned to the hotel and rocked out to our synced up ipods before the post-snorkel party.
Oddly enough, Kelly's fire limbo was not the source of her injuries.
The Phi Phi Hospital Trio in happier times
Light at the end of the tunnel... we've finally found the Phi Phi Hospital!
The good doctor
4 stitches and still looking good!
We found this directional sign the next day, but it did us no good in the middle of the night.
Kelly having her bandages changed in the "emergency room."
A contemplative pose makes you look smart and it conceals a chin injury.
Tuesday, April 28, 2009
Island of the Living Dead
Thailand takes a toll on its tourists. You're lucky if you make it out alive! A few examples:
Kelly patiently waited for me to complete 2 slides before she matter-of-factly stated, "I think I need stitches." She looked just fine to me, but little did I know that she had already cleaned up all the blood. She lifted her head to show me the gash under her chin. I've heard that you're supposed to play it cool in these situations so as not to alarm the victim. Thus, my reaction was something like, "AAARRGHH!!" This response was surely inappropriate, but I was not prepared for the gaping wound in front of me. I've never seen anything like it. No further discussion necessary. We set off in search of the hospital... just as soon as I located my shoes. That process was much more involved and time-consuming than you might think.
Our slip 'n slide friend Chris volunteered to join the march and he quickly took charge of the situation. None of us had any idea where we were or where we were going. The streets were rather empty at 4am. We found our way by piecing together the half-directions and pointing hands of the few people we encountered. Chris would ask them very complex questions like, "Excuse me, but do you know how we would find our way to the hospital from here?" I usually followed this up with a simplified, "Doctor??"
I'm grateful for Chris's help because I wasn't in the mood to lead the mission. The only other time I spoke up during our almost hour-long trek was when we veered off the footpath into a jungle area with shrubbery up to my knees. "Come on you guys! This can't possibly be the right way!!" By this point, my feet were blistered and bleeding. I really wanted to whine, but I thought it best to keep my mouth shut considering that Kelly was holding her face together without complaint. She's a real trooper! She didn't even ask for extra tissues, but she accepted them when I remembered to offer.
Lo and behold, we stumbled across the Phi Phi Island Hospital at 5am. The only reason we knew it was the hospital is because it had a sign taped to the window that said "Hospital." It looked like it had automatic doors, but you had to pry them open with your hands. It was very small and very dark and very quiet. Chris headed towards the sign that said "pharmacy." There were 4-5 wrought-iron bed back there; one of them occupied by a man in a full body cast. He asked the patient's friend if the place was open, but the guy didn't know or didn't understand the question.
Meanwhile, I headed toward the sign that said: "Duty Room. Please Knock." I knocked on the door, and like a cartoon, approximately 6 pajama-clad personnel came RUSHING out of the room. I've never seen such a fast reaction! It looked like some of them were still sleeping, but they hadn't even had enough time to jump up from their beds. "What's wrong?" someone asked. Kelly stated plainly, "I fell." Seeing that the situation wasn't that serious, all but 2 of them went back to bed.
We were then led to the "emergency room." Kelly was laid out on a table and given injections into the face by a grown man (presumably a doctor?) in Casper the Friendly Ghost pajamas. I kid you not. It was at that point that I thought, "Oh my god. I hope I haven't just delivered Kelly to death's doorstep." She must have been thinking the same thing because she started to shake on the table. I assumed the night caught up with her and she was crying. I didn't exactly want front-row seats for the procedure, but I knew I should walk over there and hold her hand. Turns out she wasn't in tears... she was shaking because she was trying to stifle her laughter. Nevertheless, I held her hand through all 4 stitches. She gave me some pretty tight squeezes.
The rising sun lit our long walk home along the beach. We arrived at our hotel at approximately 6:30am. Kelly thought we might wake up in time to catch the end of the free breakfast buffet at 10am. Yeah right... I'll see you there.
A few days later, Kelly has had her dressings changed twice (they bandages get less bulky each time) and she has been instructed to have the stitches removed in the US on April 30. In addition to the chin laceration and butt bruising, we are fairly certain that she has whiplash. I've been campaigning pretty hard for her to get a neck brace (partly for her health, mostly for my entertainment), but she has refused. A girl has to maintain her dignity, after all.
Pictures to follow :)
- The British kid I told you about with 2nd degree burns from the Ring of Fire
- The British kid's friend with his finger in a splint for a reason I can't recall
- Severe sunburns in unnatural shades of pink and red
- Mosquito bites the size of silver dollars
- A girl on our Phi Phi snorkeling trip who was bit by a monkey when we visited (where else?) Monkey Beach
- A guy on our Phi Phi snorkeling trip who stepped on a sea urchin and had ~20 spikes embedded in his foot
- A child on the beach had bandages wrapped all around his head.
- Scrapes/scratches from coral and rock. I have cuts on my foot, finger, knee and left butt cheek. A girl on the snorkeling trip had an alarmed look on her face and asked if I was alright. I thought that was kind of weird. I looked down and saw a stream of blood running from my knee to my toe.
- (secondhand story) A Thai man with a knife sticking out of his leg was wheeled to the hospital in a luggage cart. There are no vehicles on the island of Koh Phi Phi.
- Everyone and his brother has a motorbike injury. My leg burn is mild compared to the people who have bruises/scrapes all up and down the left or right side of their body from being thrown onto the sidewalk. I've come to learn that these motorbike injuries are commonly known as "Thailand tattoos." The island of Phuket has 300 motorbike deaths a year.
Kelly patiently waited for me to complete 2 slides before she matter-of-factly stated, "I think I need stitches." She looked just fine to me, but little did I know that she had already cleaned up all the blood. She lifted her head to show me the gash under her chin. I've heard that you're supposed to play it cool in these situations so as not to alarm the victim. Thus, my reaction was something like, "AAARRGHH!!" This response was surely inappropriate, but I was not prepared for the gaping wound in front of me. I've never seen anything like it. No further discussion necessary. We set off in search of the hospital... just as soon as I located my shoes. That process was much more involved and time-consuming than you might think.
Our slip 'n slide friend Chris volunteered to join the march and he quickly took charge of the situation. None of us had any idea where we were or where we were going. The streets were rather empty at 4am. We found our way by piecing together the half-directions and pointing hands of the few people we encountered. Chris would ask them very complex questions like, "Excuse me, but do you know how we would find our way to the hospital from here?" I usually followed this up with a simplified, "Doctor??"
I'm grateful for Chris's help because I wasn't in the mood to lead the mission. The only other time I spoke up during our almost hour-long trek was when we veered off the footpath into a jungle area with shrubbery up to my knees. "Come on you guys! This can't possibly be the right way!!" By this point, my feet were blistered and bleeding. I really wanted to whine, but I thought it best to keep my mouth shut considering that Kelly was holding her face together without complaint. She's a real trooper! She didn't even ask for extra tissues, but she accepted them when I remembered to offer.
Lo and behold, we stumbled across the Phi Phi Island Hospital at 5am. The only reason we knew it was the hospital is because it had a sign taped to the window that said "Hospital." It looked like it had automatic doors, but you had to pry them open with your hands. It was very small and very dark and very quiet. Chris headed towards the sign that said "pharmacy." There were 4-5 wrought-iron bed back there; one of them occupied by a man in a full body cast. He asked the patient's friend if the place was open, but the guy didn't know or didn't understand the question.
Meanwhile, I headed toward the sign that said: "Duty Room. Please Knock." I knocked on the door, and like a cartoon, approximately 6 pajama-clad personnel came RUSHING out of the room. I've never seen such a fast reaction! It looked like some of them were still sleeping, but they hadn't even had enough time to jump up from their beds. "What's wrong?" someone asked. Kelly stated plainly, "I fell." Seeing that the situation wasn't that serious, all but 2 of them went back to bed.
We were then led to the "emergency room." Kelly was laid out on a table and given injections into the face by a grown man (presumably a doctor?) in Casper the Friendly Ghost pajamas. I kid you not. It was at that point that I thought, "Oh my god. I hope I haven't just delivered Kelly to death's doorstep." She must have been thinking the same thing because she started to shake on the table. I assumed the night caught up with her and she was crying. I didn't exactly want front-row seats for the procedure, but I knew I should walk over there and hold her hand. Turns out she wasn't in tears... she was shaking because she was trying to stifle her laughter. Nevertheless, I held her hand through all 4 stitches. She gave me some pretty tight squeezes.
The rising sun lit our long walk home along the beach. We arrived at our hotel at approximately 6:30am. Kelly thought we might wake up in time to catch the end of the free breakfast buffet at 10am. Yeah right... I'll see you there.
A few days later, Kelly has had her dressings changed twice (they bandages get less bulky each time) and she has been instructed to have the stitches removed in the US on April 30. In addition to the chin laceration and butt bruising, we are fairly certain that she has whiplash. I've been campaigning pretty hard for her to get a neck brace (partly for her health, mostly for my entertainment), but she has refused. A girl has to maintain her dignity, after all.
Pictures to follow :)
Friday, April 24, 2009
Koh Phi Phi
Here is the view of Phi Phi from the balcony of our hotel room! Phi Phi is the island that was most affected by the 2004 tsunami. Most everything has been rebuilt by this point and the tourists have returned in droves. Still trying to recover financially, Phi Phi hotels/restaurants charge the highest prices of anywhere in Thailand. I've also heard that electricity on Phi Phi costs 3 times as much as electricity on the mainland. It is still very cheap by Western standards, but it's a bit of a shock now that I've become accustomed to paying $15 for a night's accommodation.
Passage to Phi Phi
After returning from our boat tour, we went back to the hotel to pick up our luggage and secretly use the outdoor showers/bathrooms. We are sneaky! This was our only opportunity to clean up before our overnight journey to Koh Phi Phi island on the Andaman (west) coast. I only travel under the cover of darkness now. The conditions of these overnight journeys really do get worse each time... I should have done this trip backwards.
We took an 8 hour overnight (10pm-6am) boat trip from Koh Pha Ngan to Surat Thani. It was like a slave ship! The boat appeared to be about 100 years old and we boarded via a wooden plank. Then you went up a 6 step ladder/staircase to the upper level sleeping quarters. The ceiling was too low for us to stand up straight. There was a narrow walkway flanked by 2 rows of very thin sleeping mats and very hard pillows... probably 50 on each side. Luckily, the boat was only half full so everyone could spread out a bit. Otherwise, you'd get to know your neighbor pretty well! There were a few fans scattered about, but we had to keep the windows open to get the sea breeze. This made for a loud journey and the boat was a-rockin! I didn't get sick, but I didn't get any sleep either.
Realizing that the slave ship comparison might be a bit harsh (they probably didn't have fans), I instead thought of myself as a young Irish widow fleeing the potato famine in search of a better life in America. I could barely last 8 hours on that damn boat, so I have a newfound respect for my ancestors and happier than ever to have been born in the United States.
When we arrived in Surat Thani, we took a sawngthaew (pick-up truck taxi with benches in the back) to an open-air travel agency. We spent 45 minutes watching Jackass 2 before a bus picked us up for the 2 hour ride to Krabi. We ate breakfast at the Krabi pier, then took a 2.5 hour ferry ride to Koh Phi Phi island. This was one of the nicest pier/ferry combos I've seen in Thailand. It had AC! I was just beginning to think that this leg of the journey could conceivably meet American standards when a little girl in the row ahead of me vomited. Mother and daughter took turns holding the plastic bag of puck for the remaining hour of the journey. The bathroom is 20 feet away -- get up and dump that!
Upon docking in Phi Phi, we were met by hour hotel's long boat water taxi. They were waiting to transport Mr. Maureen C and guest to the resort. I was happy to play the role of Mr. if it meant a bed and shower.
D-O-Double G
We had to check out of our hotel at noon on Wednesday even though we weren't planning to leave the island until later that night. For the 3rd day in a row, the ever unhelpful "concierge" told me it was too windy for any of the island's boat tours to set sail. "So there's nothing we can do today?" I asked. She said no. Desperate to kill some time, we walked into town and easily booked ourselves on the afternoon Snoop Dogg boat tour. You have to rely on yourself in Thailand. I often wonder whether people don't understand me or if they are outright lying to me.When we bought our tickets, the agent gave us a "tour warning sheet" that included the following information: -
- Be aware that this is Asia. Most tours and guides operate with little concern for safety.
- Don't expect too much from the snorkeling. It is normally short and often visibility is limited.
- On fishing trips, you are not guaranteed to catch fish and often use drop lines instead of fishing rods. Don't expect too much!
- On tours with waterfalls - these are seasonal and sometimes in the year there is little water. Don't expect too much!
Chalk it up to lowered expectations, but I thought the tour was a fun way to spend the afternoon. True - the waterfall wasn't very big, but we swam/climbed through a narrow cave and Kelly jumped off a cliff a la George of the Jungle. We visited some of the island's more remote beaches and did a bit of snorkeling. And, yes, the boat was named Snoop Dogg for the exact reasons you would expect a boat to be named Snoop Dogg. Expectations exceeded!
Full Moon
Koh Pha Ngan's Haad Rin beach is the site of Thailand's legendary full moon parties. This is the place to let loose in southeast Asia. Haad Rin has capitalized on this success by celebrating the half moon, black moon, crescent moon...
Our visit to Koh Pha Ngan did not coincide with any special lunar events, but Hadd Rin was still party central. Big crowds gather on this small beach every night of the week. Thai kids roam the shores selling leis and glow sticks, an essential item in any raver's toolkit. Oceanfront bars compete to see who can play the loudest music and produce the biggest flames. This includes fire twirlers, fire limbo, fire jump rope, etc. We met a British kid who walked through a burning ring of fire. This is no Johnny Cash metaphor -- the beach as an actual burning ring of fire. He suffered 2nd degree burns on his legs attempting to dive through the flaming hoola hoop. Someone saw my motorbike burn and I asked if I also jumped through the hoop.
Without a doubt, the most entertaining part of Haad Rin's nightlife are the rows of stalls crammed between the full-service bars. You can't walk within 20 feet of these stalls without being accosted to buy a bucket of booze. They sell plastic pails (like a kid would use to build a sandcastle) filled with a can of soda, a bottle of Red Bull, and a flask-sized bottle of liquor. Be careful to check the seal on the bottle because some stalls are known to replace the brand name stuff with the cheap stuff. Upon purchase, the "bartender" dumps the contents into the bucket, adds a handful of ice, and pops in a few straws. I was initially wary of the ice (don't drink the water in Thailand), but then I decided the ice was probably the least likely thing in the bucket to make me sick.
These stalls all sell the exact same thing for similar prices. To differentiate themselves, they decorate their tables with painted signs of nonsense. As you'll see from the pictures, they're very fond of the F-word and the promise of every late night male party animal: "I love you long time."
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
Relaxation Station
Having been covered in layers of sweat, DEET and sunscreen for far too long, Kelly and I were eager to visit Ko Pha Ngan's Cocohut Resort Spa for some pampering. We paid a whopping $40 for the 3-hour "Top to Toe" package, which would easily cost hundreds of dollars in the US. I thought we'd spend the morning engaged in girl talk, but we were escorted to separate rooms upon arrival. Perhaps the story would have been different had we selected the "Romance" or (my personal fave) the "Ever Lovers" package.
First on the agenda was a tropical fruit body wrap. Basically, your body is slathered in a fruit smoothie and you're tightly wrapped in cellophane. It feels like you're a lovingly swaddled infant or a death-wrapped mummy. Take your pick. Then you're left to marinate in the juices and breathe in the sugary sweetness for a while. Kind of weird.
The always weird dressing/undressing process was further complicated by a language barrier. I've encountered paper underwear before but never the full-on granny panty version. Anyone? I attribute this to the Thai modesty. (They are wearing pants and sleeves in the sweltering heat and often swim fully clothed.) After bursting forth from the cellophane cocoon, this beautiful butterfly was directed to the showers to rinse off the berry bits. Dilemma: do you wear the paper underwear in the shower? Since the woman remained in the room with me, I decided the answer was yes. It soon became clear that the correct answer is NO. They are made of paper, after all. Sometimes I'm too uptight for my own good. Now that I had a clear view of the chunky "fruit wrap," I thought it looked a little like vomit. I had to remind myself that I was at a soothing seaside spa, not a frat party.
The fruit wrap was followed by a massage. This involved moving rooms and transitioning from the disintegrated paper underwear to a robe to a sarong/sheet. The woman tried to help me, but the process was very awkward. I wasn't quite sure who was supposed to take off this, or put on that, or touch what... it was like a bad first date. Once that business was settled, the massage itself was very enjoyable.
Back in the comfort of my own clothes, I joined Kelly on the balcony for a manicure and pedicure. I was a little nervous about the Thai hygiene standards, but I figure a resort spa is safer than a back alley nail salon. I don't want a Paula Abdul situation on my hands (or feet!). If I remember correctly, she blames all her troubles on a botched manicure. Dirty tools led to an infection, which led to an addition to painkillers, which led to an inability to speak in coherent complete sentences. Straight up!
I don't think this spa does too many mani/pedis because it took forever and the results aren't spectacular. Kelly's technician was so slow that mine had to lend a helping hand. As I waited patiently for Kelly to finish, the receptionist asked if I was hungry. I answered, "a little bit." Clearly, that was polite code for "I'm starving!" I suppose the woman asked out of plain curiosity because, to my great dismay, no snacks were delivered. I didn't appreciate the teasing.
When Kelly's nails finally dried an unfortunate shade of beauty queen iridescent pink, our morning of relaxation ended and we began our afternoon work: eating a delicious Thai lunch, floating in the pool, and reading in the sun.
First on the agenda was a tropical fruit body wrap. Basically, your body is slathered in a fruit smoothie and you're tightly wrapped in cellophane. It feels like you're a lovingly swaddled infant or a death-wrapped mummy. Take your pick. Then you're left to marinate in the juices and breathe in the sugary sweetness for a while. Kind of weird.
The always weird dressing/undressing process was further complicated by a language barrier. I've encountered paper underwear before but never the full-on granny panty version. Anyone? I attribute this to the Thai modesty. (They are wearing pants and sleeves in the sweltering heat and often swim fully clothed.) After bursting forth from the cellophane cocoon, this beautiful butterfly was directed to the showers to rinse off the berry bits. Dilemma: do you wear the paper underwear in the shower? Since the woman remained in the room with me, I decided the answer was yes. It soon became clear that the correct answer is NO. They are made of paper, after all. Sometimes I'm too uptight for my own good. Now that I had a clear view of the chunky "fruit wrap," I thought it looked a little like vomit. I had to remind myself that I was at a soothing seaside spa, not a frat party.
The fruit wrap was followed by a massage. This involved moving rooms and transitioning from the disintegrated paper underwear to a robe to a sarong/sheet. The woman tried to help me, but the process was very awkward. I wasn't quite sure who was supposed to take off this, or put on that, or touch what... it was like a bad first date. Once that business was settled, the massage itself was very enjoyable.
Back in the comfort of my own clothes, I joined Kelly on the balcony for a manicure and pedicure. I was a little nervous about the Thai hygiene standards, but I figure a resort spa is safer than a back alley nail salon. I don't want a Paula Abdul situation on my hands (or feet!). If I remember correctly, she blames all her troubles on a botched manicure. Dirty tools led to an infection, which led to an addition to painkillers, which led to an inability to speak in coherent complete sentences. Straight up!
I don't think this spa does too many mani/pedis because it took forever and the results aren't spectacular. Kelly's technician was so slow that mine had to lend a helping hand. As I waited patiently for Kelly to finish, the receptionist asked if I was hungry. I answered, "a little bit." Clearly, that was polite code for "I'm starving!" I suppose the woman asked out of plain curiosity because, to my great dismay, no snacks were delivered. I didn't appreciate the teasing.
When Kelly's nails finally dried an unfortunate shade of beauty queen iridescent pink, our morning of relaxation ended and we began our afternoon work: eating a delicious Thai lunch, floating in the pool, and reading in the sun.
Monday, April 20, 2009
Medical Retreat
Kelly is still recovering from a recent surgery. I am trying to deal with the nasty burn on my leg. (I may call cousin Pat, expert on motorcycle injuries and burns, for some advice on how to self-medicate.) We certainly don't need malaria on top of all that, so we are sleeping under these alluring mosquito nets. The mornings are a hazy shade of green.
Pilgrimage to Paradise
Kelly and I baked in Bangkok for 2 days before heading to the islands for some R & R. And we worked hard to get here! As the Beastie Boys say, you gotta fight for your right to party. We took a 13 hour overnight train ride from Bangkok to Surat Thani. (It had been almost a week since my last overnight train ride... I was starting to miss them.) Of all my overnight trains, this one had the worst conditions. But as you can see from the picture below, we kept ourselves entertained.
When the train arrived in Surat Thani at 7am, we took a 2o minute bus ride to what seemed to be a holding cell. Then we took a 1 hour bus ride to the pier. Then we took a 3 hour ferry ride to the island of Ko Pha Ngan. We are finally here and we are loving it!
When the train arrived in Surat Thani at 7am, we took a 2o minute bus ride to what seemed to be a holding cell. Then we took a 1 hour bus ride to the pier. Then we took a 3 hour ferry ride to the island of Ko Pha Ngan. We are finally here and we are loving it!
#11
Didn't I tell you it was only 7pm when I posted that last blog entry? Still plenty of time for things to go wrong...
At some point during the night, I suddenly realized - like an epiphany - that my train to Bangkok left at 7 at night, not 7 in the morning. It's not like I confused AM and PM. The ticket clearly listed the departure in military time as 19:20. I have no idea how I convinced myself this meant 7am. The heat is getting to me. This meant I wouldn't arrive in Bangkok until after 3am. I had no way to get in touch with Kelly at this point. She'd arrive at the hotel and think I'd been captured by the Red Shirts!
I hoofed it to the train station despite being told all other trains to Bangkok were full. I figured I had nothing to lose. I arrived around 10pm and had to talk to 3 people to effectively communicate that I wanted to change my ticket. A man went to the computer terminal and showed me a screen full of zeros, meaning there were no empty seats. "Nothing," he said. "Nothing?!" I pleaded. He typed something on the keyboard. "3:20 afternoon," he blurted. Where did this new ticket suddenly come from? I don't know and I don't care. It was a 2nd class train with AC and the journey would take 5 hours instead of 8. I'll take it!
My absentmindedness turned out to be an incredible stroke of good luck. While I was waiting for my 2nd class train the next afternoon, I saw one of those 3rd class trains I was meant to be on. Oh, the horror! Three to four people were crammed on wooden benches meant to seat two. People were standing. People were hanging out the windows and loitering on the stairs. It was 96 degrees before accounting for the humidity. I honestly doubt that I could have endured it.
My 2nd class train was no picnic, mind you. It was an hour late. The AC cut in and out. There was a cockroach under my seat. The stairs were covered in lettuce (??). I enjoyed every minute of it. It was the Four Seasons compared to the hell on wheels I had seen earlier. It's all relative!
At some point during the night, I suddenly realized - like an epiphany - that my train to Bangkok left at 7 at night, not 7 in the morning. It's not like I confused AM and PM. The ticket clearly listed the departure in military time as 19:20. I have no idea how I convinced myself this meant 7am. The heat is getting to me. This meant I wouldn't arrive in Bangkok until after 3am. I had no way to get in touch with Kelly at this point. She'd arrive at the hotel and think I'd been captured by the Red Shirts!
I hoofed it to the train station despite being told all other trains to Bangkok were full. I figured I had nothing to lose. I arrived around 10pm and had to talk to 3 people to effectively communicate that I wanted to change my ticket. A man went to the computer terminal and showed me a screen full of zeros, meaning there were no empty seats. "Nothing," he said. "Nothing?!" I pleaded. He typed something on the keyboard. "3:20 afternoon," he blurted. Where did this new ticket suddenly come from? I don't know and I don't care. It was a 2nd class train with AC and the journey would take 5 hours instead of 8. I'll take it!
My absentmindedness turned out to be an incredible stroke of good luck. While I was waiting for my 2nd class train the next afternoon, I saw one of those 3rd class trains I was meant to be on. Oh, the horror! Three to four people were crammed on wooden benches meant to seat two. People were standing. People were hanging out the windows and loitering on the stairs. It was 96 degrees before accounting for the humidity. I honestly doubt that I could have endured it.
My 2nd class train was no picnic, mind you. It was an hour late. The AC cut in and out. There was a cockroach under my seat. The stairs were covered in lettuce (??). I enjoyed every minute of it. It was the Four Seasons compared to the hell on wheels I had seen earlier. It's all relative!
Songkran Festival
Here are some pictures from the recent Thai new year celebration / water wars in Chiang Mai, Sukhothai and Phitsanoluk. The last shot is a self-portrait. It won't win me any beauty contests, but it illustrates the insanity of Songkran. This is what happened to me in the short distance I had to walk from my tuk-tuk (cab) to my hotel in Bangkok.
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
I Am Jack Bauer
I may not be saving the world from terrorists like Jack Bauer, but I am running around the world like a madman. I feel like I'm a losing contestant on The Amazing Race with all the plotting and planning I've been up to lately. This country is complete chaos and I wouldn't necessarily recommend a visit. It's a little bit like a 3rd world country at times, which is not what I was expecting.
The good news is that the violence in Bangkok seems to have calmed down today. The protesters are going home, although the situation certainly isn't resolved so don't plan any future vacations. Read a news update here. Thanks for all your concerned comments and emails... nice to know some people are keeping track of my whereabouts!!
Outside of Bangkok, the rest of the country has erupted in less violent, but equally disorganized chaos. As I mentioned previously, we are in the middle of Songkran, the Thai New Year. This means people take to the streets for massive water fights. Not just a squirt gun... I'm talking about throwing gallon buckets full of water on you. Everyone in the country seems to own a pick-up truck. They pack about 20 people in the bed of the truck ranging in age from infant to grandma (along with a garbage can full of water for refills) and drive around the city soaking everyone and everything in sight. Yesterday, it took my "bus" (meaning a covered pick-up truck) about 1 hour to drive 12km. In addition to water, I was also doused with some kind of orange substance. Gatorade? This must be what it feels like to win the Superbowl.
Every single town is like this. You can't walk out of your hotel without getting absolutely soaked-to-the-bone drenched. Music is blaring. It is a combination of Thai music and American hip-hop. If I never again hear "...she wore them apple bottom jeans..." I will be a happy woman. At first, the festival seemed to mostly involve small children. They are laughing like crazy, soaking wet, and very cute. But now it seems to be more a drink-fest and it is not so cute.
This Songkran business is amusing for about the first 2 hours. The party slowly built up over the last few days and reached full force yesterday and today. I think there are at least 2 more days ahead. The celebration also involves paint. People like to put handprints on you. Luckily, this easily washes out of clothes. I lost count of how many people stroked my face with paint today. Gross. I'm waiting for the acne breakout. But it's definitely better to play along and smile. Short of barricading yourself in a hotel, it is impossible to avoid the water. Also, I saw a foam party in the middle of the town square today. It is like Carnivale up in here!!
Here is today's Top 10 List (and it is only 7:00pm).
1) I woke up extra early to go online and check out what happened in Bangkok overnight. My travel plans largely depend on this news. Seems like things are getting worse. Shots fired, 2 people dead, buses on fire...
2) I send a text message to my cousin Kelly to go online so we can "google chat." Gotta love technology! She is supposed to fly into Bangkok to meet me on the 15th. She is due to leave Boston in 10hrs. She still wants to come. Our plan is to head south to hit the beaches, which are totally safe, but the problem is that you're forced to travel through Bangkok. I consider my options... I can backtrack all the way up north to Chiang Mai and take a direct flight down South. Kelly offers to stay in the airport overnight (her flight doesn't arrive until 11pm) and catch a flight down South the next morning. In the end, we decide to book a night at the swanky Bangkok airport hotel where I had my overnight layover a few weeks ago. It is a FORTUNE by Thai standards, but I think it is the safest bet. The hotel is right next to the airport, 30km out of the city. This means Kelly won't have to set a foot in Bangkok city. I, on the other hand, will have to get myself from the Bangkok train station to the hotel. Hoping the roads will be clear and the train station will be open (it was closed on Mon). As Kelly and I close down our chat, we decide that I'll buy us plane tickets to get the hell out of Bangkok the very next day. My biggest concern at this point is that protests will shut down the airport like they did in December. Then we'll really be screwed.
3) With that decided, I eat a quick breakfast and check out of my hotel in Sukhothai. I get a ride to the bus station in some contraption. That's the only word to describe it. It wasn't even a proper tuk-tuk (which are scary in their own right). This was like a motorcycle, but with 2 wheels in the front and a platform with 2 bench seats. Needless to say, both me and my luggage get soaked on the short ride to the bus station. I'm an easy target for these kids.
4) I arrive at the bus station having no idea what the bus schedule is. It seems next to impossible to find accurate bus or train timetables online. I buy a ticket to the town on Phitsanoluk, only about 1.5 hours away. This bus is much nicer and roomier than the bus I took from Chiang Mai the other day. My guide book outlines in great detail the difference between all the different classes and types of train/bus tickets. But when I'm in the thick of it at the bus/train stations with staff who don't speak English, it's very hard for me to tell what type of ticket I'm buying. It's luck of the draw.
5) My bus arrives in Phitsanoluk. I want to go straight to the train station to continue further south to the town of Lopburi. (My hope was to get about halfway to Bangkok today.) A woman meets me outside the bus and asks the usual, "Miss, where you go?" She is driving a motorbike. "But I have luggage," I tell her. She says this is okay, and I don't see any other form of transportation available. Alright, here we go... She jams my giant backpack between her and the front of the bike. I hop on behind her wearing a skirt, a small pack on my back and my purse slung across my shoulder. There are no helmets in sight. We go zooming through the streets of Phitsanoluk and I'm pretty sure I'm going to die. As we drive past the throngs of kids with buckets, she simply holds up her hand. And surprise... they do not splash us! I am starting to like this woman. Then we arrive at the train station. Me being unaccustomed to motorbikes, I BURN THE SH*T out of my leg climbing off the bike. I must have hit the engine or something. The baseball-sized burn on my leg is still hurting many hours later. I would buy some ointment if only I had the foggiest clue of where to find such an item.
6) I see the train platform off in the distance, but the woman has stopped on the "wrong" side. There are about 8 sets of train tracks between me and the ticket platform. "How do I get there?" I asked her. She just points. "Do I walk?" I really can't believe this is happening. "Yes, walk, walk!" she says as if I am in idiot for even asking and shoos me away. So there I am with 20-some pounds of luggage on my back, my leg on fire, trekking across 8 sets of train tracks. This time, I was really sure I was going to die...
7) I get in line at the ticket office. I am sweating buckets. The man tells me the train to Lopburi is full. I really wanted to see Lopburi, a town of ancient ruins overrun with monkeys. But that is SO far down on the list of priorities at this point. I figure I can stay in Phitsanoluk and get a train straight to Bangkok tomorrow. There are like 6 trains a day. To my utter HORROR, the man tells me the only option left tomorrow is a 3rd class seat. All the trains are booked because of the Songkran holiday (I imagine this is like trying to book a flight the Sunday after Thanksgiving.) OMG. I tell the man I'll come back later. I take a seat and feel sorry for myself for a few minutes. I have read such horrible things about these 3rd class trains. They don't have AC and the seating is wooden benches. The ride is 8 HOURS. I can't imagine why it takes this long... we must stop at every podunk town along the way. But I simply don't have another choice, so I bought the train ticket for tomorrow morning at 7:20am. I need to get to Bangkok and I'm sure as hell not taking a bus into town. The red shirts have commandeered buses, used them as roadblocks, and set them on fire.
8) I take another rickshaw-like form of transport to a hotel in Phitsanoluk. It has a TV with the BBC news channel in English. Over the course of a few hours, it appears that the protests in Bangkok are over. The red shirt leaders have ordered everyone to go home. Everything I'm seeing and reading says Bangkok is getting back to normal (if you can ever consider Bangkok "normal"). Bangkok is a huge city and all the forums I'm reading say most of it was fine even during the worst of the riots. I now think it's probably safe to stay at a more economical place in town.
9) Upon leaving my hotel to explore flooded Phitsanulok, a van backs into me. Backs straight into me! On an ordinary day, this would be the first thing on my list to tell you. Today, I barely blink an eye. I didn't fall over... just a big stumble before I caught myself.
10) I text Kelly again to let her know the updated situation. She is just waking up for her flight. She agrees with me that it's okay to change the hotel reservation. I cancel the airport hotel and make a new reservation in Banglamphu... a section of Bangkok full of tourists that has seen no trouble. With the last few cents of credit on my mobile phone, I text Kelly the address of the new hotel so she can get a cab. We're still only going to spend one night in Bangkok, maybe 2 to help Kelly recover from her jet lag depending on the atmosphere. I have no desire to stick around that crazy place.
That's all the news that's fit to print!! I hope plans don't have to change again. And I hope I don't suffocate on this 8 hour, 100 degree train ride tomorrow. Send me thoughts of popsicles and pina coladas!! The Thai beaches better be worth all this hassle :) If and when I ever get there, I am going to park my caboose in a hammock for a good week.
The good news is that the violence in Bangkok seems to have calmed down today. The protesters are going home, although the situation certainly isn't resolved so don't plan any future vacations. Read a news update here. Thanks for all your concerned comments and emails... nice to know some people are keeping track of my whereabouts!!
Outside of Bangkok, the rest of the country has erupted in less violent, but equally disorganized chaos. As I mentioned previously, we are in the middle of Songkran, the Thai New Year. This means people take to the streets for massive water fights. Not just a squirt gun... I'm talking about throwing gallon buckets full of water on you. Everyone in the country seems to own a pick-up truck. They pack about 20 people in the bed of the truck ranging in age from infant to grandma (along with a garbage can full of water for refills) and drive around the city soaking everyone and everything in sight. Yesterday, it took my "bus" (meaning a covered pick-up truck) about 1 hour to drive 12km. In addition to water, I was also doused with some kind of orange substance. Gatorade? This must be what it feels like to win the Superbowl.
Every single town is like this. You can't walk out of your hotel without getting absolutely soaked-to-the-bone drenched. Music is blaring. It is a combination of Thai music and American hip-hop. If I never again hear "...she wore them apple bottom jeans..." I will be a happy woman. At first, the festival seemed to mostly involve small children. They are laughing like crazy, soaking wet, and very cute. But now it seems to be more a drink-fest and it is not so cute.
This Songkran business is amusing for about the first 2 hours. The party slowly built up over the last few days and reached full force yesterday and today. I think there are at least 2 more days ahead. The celebration also involves paint. People like to put handprints on you. Luckily, this easily washes out of clothes. I lost count of how many people stroked my face with paint today. Gross. I'm waiting for the acne breakout. But it's definitely better to play along and smile. Short of barricading yourself in a hotel, it is impossible to avoid the water. Also, I saw a foam party in the middle of the town square today. It is like Carnivale up in here!!
Here is today's Top 10 List (and it is only 7:00pm).
1) I woke up extra early to go online and check out what happened in Bangkok overnight. My travel plans largely depend on this news. Seems like things are getting worse. Shots fired, 2 people dead, buses on fire...
2) I send a text message to my cousin Kelly to go online so we can "google chat." Gotta love technology! She is supposed to fly into Bangkok to meet me on the 15th. She is due to leave Boston in 10hrs. She still wants to come. Our plan is to head south to hit the beaches, which are totally safe, but the problem is that you're forced to travel through Bangkok. I consider my options... I can backtrack all the way up north to Chiang Mai and take a direct flight down South. Kelly offers to stay in the airport overnight (her flight doesn't arrive until 11pm) and catch a flight down South the next morning. In the end, we decide to book a night at the swanky Bangkok airport hotel where I had my overnight layover a few weeks ago. It is a FORTUNE by Thai standards, but I think it is the safest bet. The hotel is right next to the airport, 30km out of the city. This means Kelly won't have to set a foot in Bangkok city. I, on the other hand, will have to get myself from the Bangkok train station to the hotel. Hoping the roads will be clear and the train station will be open (it was closed on Mon). As Kelly and I close down our chat, we decide that I'll buy us plane tickets to get the hell out of Bangkok the very next day. My biggest concern at this point is that protests will shut down the airport like they did in December. Then we'll really be screwed.
3) With that decided, I eat a quick breakfast and check out of my hotel in Sukhothai. I get a ride to the bus station in some contraption. That's the only word to describe it. It wasn't even a proper tuk-tuk (which are scary in their own right). This was like a motorcycle, but with 2 wheels in the front and a platform with 2 bench seats. Needless to say, both me and my luggage get soaked on the short ride to the bus station. I'm an easy target for these kids.
4) I arrive at the bus station having no idea what the bus schedule is. It seems next to impossible to find accurate bus or train timetables online. I buy a ticket to the town on Phitsanoluk, only about 1.5 hours away. This bus is much nicer and roomier than the bus I took from Chiang Mai the other day. My guide book outlines in great detail the difference between all the different classes and types of train/bus tickets. But when I'm in the thick of it at the bus/train stations with staff who don't speak English, it's very hard for me to tell what type of ticket I'm buying. It's luck of the draw.
5) My bus arrives in Phitsanoluk. I want to go straight to the train station to continue further south to the town of Lopburi. (My hope was to get about halfway to Bangkok today.) A woman meets me outside the bus and asks the usual, "Miss, where you go?" She is driving a motorbike. "But I have luggage," I tell her. She says this is okay, and I don't see any other form of transportation available. Alright, here we go... She jams my giant backpack between her and the front of the bike. I hop on behind her wearing a skirt, a small pack on my back and my purse slung across my shoulder. There are no helmets in sight. We go zooming through the streets of Phitsanoluk and I'm pretty sure I'm going to die. As we drive past the throngs of kids with buckets, she simply holds up her hand. And surprise... they do not splash us! I am starting to like this woman. Then we arrive at the train station. Me being unaccustomed to motorbikes, I BURN THE SH*T out of my leg climbing off the bike. I must have hit the engine or something. The baseball-sized burn on my leg is still hurting many hours later. I would buy some ointment if only I had the foggiest clue of where to find such an item.
6) I see the train platform off in the distance, but the woman has stopped on the "wrong" side. There are about 8 sets of train tracks between me and the ticket platform. "How do I get there?" I asked her. She just points. "Do I walk?" I really can't believe this is happening. "Yes, walk, walk!" she says as if I am in idiot for even asking and shoos me away. So there I am with 20-some pounds of luggage on my back, my leg on fire, trekking across 8 sets of train tracks. This time, I was really sure I was going to die...
7) I get in line at the ticket office. I am sweating buckets. The man tells me the train to Lopburi is full. I really wanted to see Lopburi, a town of ancient ruins overrun with monkeys. But that is SO far down on the list of priorities at this point. I figure I can stay in Phitsanoluk and get a train straight to Bangkok tomorrow. There are like 6 trains a day. To my utter HORROR, the man tells me the only option left tomorrow is a 3rd class seat. All the trains are booked because of the Songkran holiday (I imagine this is like trying to book a flight the Sunday after Thanksgiving.) OMG. I tell the man I'll come back later. I take a seat and feel sorry for myself for a few minutes. I have read such horrible things about these 3rd class trains. They don't have AC and the seating is wooden benches. The ride is 8 HOURS. I can't imagine why it takes this long... we must stop at every podunk town along the way. But I simply don't have another choice, so I bought the train ticket for tomorrow morning at 7:20am. I need to get to Bangkok and I'm sure as hell not taking a bus into town. The red shirts have commandeered buses, used them as roadblocks, and set them on fire.
8) I take another rickshaw-like form of transport to a hotel in Phitsanoluk. It has a TV with the BBC news channel in English. Over the course of a few hours, it appears that the protests in Bangkok are over. The red shirt leaders have ordered everyone to go home. Everything I'm seeing and reading says Bangkok is getting back to normal (if you can ever consider Bangkok "normal"). Bangkok is a huge city and all the forums I'm reading say most of it was fine even during the worst of the riots. I now think it's probably safe to stay at a more economical place in town.
9) Upon leaving my hotel to explore flooded Phitsanulok, a van backs into me. Backs straight into me! On an ordinary day, this would be the first thing on my list to tell you. Today, I barely blink an eye. I didn't fall over... just a big stumble before I caught myself.
10) I text Kelly again to let her know the updated situation. She is just waking up for her flight. She agrees with me that it's okay to change the hotel reservation. I cancel the airport hotel and make a new reservation in Banglamphu... a section of Bangkok full of tourists that has seen no trouble. With the last few cents of credit on my mobile phone, I text Kelly the address of the new hotel so she can get a cab. We're still only going to spend one night in Bangkok, maybe 2 to help Kelly recover from her jet lag depending on the atmosphere. I have no desire to stick around that crazy place.
That's all the news that's fit to print!! I hope plans don't have to change again. And I hope I don't suffocate on this 8 hour, 100 degree train ride tomorrow. Send me thoughts of popsicles and pina coladas!! The Thai beaches better be worth all this hassle :) If and when I ever get there, I am going to park my caboose in a hammock for a good week.
Sunday, April 12, 2009
Newsflash, Thai Style
It suddenly seems that ferocious tigers are the least of my worries. Anti-government "red shirt" protests are breaking out around the country and Bangkok is in a state of emergency. Is this making the news in the US? I suppose I will lay low and play things by ear for the next few days. I saw some of these red shirt people protesting a govt building outside Chiang Mai yesterday, but it seems like most of the trouble is centered in Bangkok and Pattaya.
I took a bus to the town of Sukhothai today and will stay here for at least 2 nights. Our bus was stopped in what I believe was a routine inspection. Two militay officers in camo, berets and facemasks marched on board. "What's happening?" I asked the guy next to me. "Problem," he said. Uh-oh, I thought. "There's a problem?" I asked. "Bad medicine," he told me. I took this to mean it was a drug search. The officer marched up to me (one of 3 non-Thais) on the bus and simply said "passport." I handed it over. He gave it a cursory look, asked for the IDs of a few Thais, and then we were on our way again.
I took a bus to the town of Sukhothai today and will stay here for at least 2 nights. Our bus was stopped in what I believe was a routine inspection. Two militay officers in camo, berets and facemasks marched on board. "What's happening?" I asked the guy next to me. "Problem," he said. Uh-oh, I thought. "There's a problem?" I asked. "Bad medicine," he told me. I took this to mean it was a drug search. The officer marched up to me (one of 3 non-Thais) on the bus and simply said "passport." I handed it over. He gave it a cursory look, asked for the IDs of a few Thais, and then we were on our way again.
Going Solo
"Are you alone?" I've been asked this question a lot recently. My confirmation usually elicits a combination of awe and pity. The truth is that there are lots of solo travelers here; my situation is not that unusual. However, I suspect I get questioned more often because people tend to assume I'm much younger than I actually am. No, I'm not on my gap year... No, I'm not a student...
Being on my own is not so bad. In fact, I'm starting to enjoy it. (Of course, I'm still very excited to get some company next week!) You can do whatever you want, whenever you want, and change your mind on a whim. It's easy to talk to people, and it gives me a sense of accomplishment. The day is filled with little triumphs. Very little triumphs, like successfully ordering dinner or locating a particular temple. It's just me, my map, and my horrible sense of direction. If at first I don't succeed (and I usually don't), I try try again. Nine times out of ten, I wind up where I want to be.
On my way home from a river cruise yesterday, I asked the driver to drop me off at a Chinatown market instead of my hotel. He stopped the van in the middle of the road, hurried me out, pointed toward the sky and said "5 minute." Thanks. When I eventually found the market, I wished I hadn't. It was hot crowded chaos. I had to turn my body sideways to allow a car to pass. Sometimes I just stood still because there was nowhere to move. I wanted to get out of there.
Naturally, the one time I want a tuk-tuk is the one time I'm not hounded by tuk-tuk drivers. I slowly made my way to a quiet corner and pulled out a map. A lost-looking British guy in his 60s soon approached me and asked, "Where do you reckon we are?" I laughed and said, "I have no idea." We studied the map together, found our respective ways and wished each other luck. Two ships passing in the stormy seas of Chinatown...
Being on my own is not so bad. In fact, I'm starting to enjoy it. (Of course, I'm still very excited to get some company next week!) You can do whatever you want, whenever you want, and change your mind on a whim. It's easy to talk to people, and it gives me a sense of accomplishment. The day is filled with little triumphs. Very little triumphs, like successfully ordering dinner or locating a particular temple. It's just me, my map, and my horrible sense of direction. If at first I don't succeed (and I usually don't), I try try again. Nine times out of ten, I wind up where I want to be.
On my way home from a river cruise yesterday, I asked the driver to drop me off at a Chinatown market instead of my hotel. He stopped the van in the middle of the road, hurried me out, pointed toward the sky and said "5 minute." Thanks. When I eventually found the market, I wished I hadn't. It was hot crowded chaos. I had to turn my body sideways to allow a car to pass. Sometimes I just stood still because there was nowhere to move. I wanted to get out of there.
Naturally, the one time I want a tuk-tuk is the one time I'm not hounded by tuk-tuk drivers. I slowly made my way to a quiet corner and pulled out a map. A lost-looking British guy in his 60s soon approached me and asked, "Where do you reckon we are?" I laughed and said, "I have no idea." We studied the map together, found our respective ways and wished each other luck. Two ships passing in the stormy seas of Chinatown...
Sigfried, Roy, and Me
Chiang Mai's Tiger Kingdom allows you to walk into the cages and frolic with the beasts. The only guidelines are don't touch the head; don't touch the paws; don't approach her from behind. Oh yeah, and don't wear red because that might provoke the tiger. My girl Ping in 9 months old and eats only chicken. That's all the information I could get from the trainer due to the language barrier. I asked if they ever had any accidents at Tiger Kingdom. He said, "Yesterday and this morning." Gulp. For safety's sake, I hoped he hadn't understood my question.
The trainer grabbed my camera and started snapping away. I have a silly number of pictures with this tiger. I felt like a jungle model because he was telling me exactly how to pose. "Lay down and put head on tiger bum." Umm, okay. That lasted about 5 seconds before Ping turned her giant head to face my tiny head. Doesn't it look like she wants to eat me?? I changed to a standing position, better prepared to make a run for it.
The trainer grabbed my camera and started snapping away. I have a silly number of pictures with this tiger. I felt like a jungle model because he was telling me exactly how to pose. "Lay down and put head on tiger bum." Umm, okay. That lasted about 5 seconds before Ping turned her giant head to face my tiny head. Doesn't it look like she wants to eat me?? I changed to a standing position, better prepared to make a run for it.
Friday, April 10, 2009
An Elephant Will Never Forget Me
This was much more physically challenging than it looks, especially when the elephant is walking down a steep hill. Check out the little baby in the 2nd photo. She was only 2 months old. Did you know that the elephant gestation period is more than 2 years? Yipes.The elephant riding was fun, but the highlight of this "trek" was the bamboo rafting. (No pictures from my non-waterproof camera.) The bamboo raft is just that... about 8 long reeds of bamboo tied together. There were 4 of us on the raft, including the guide. We started out by standing on the raft. It was a little difficult balancing on the wet bamboo with nothing to hold on to, but I managed. Then we came across a big branch. As I tried to duck, I lost my balance and fell into a sitting position. The woman behind me was knocked clear off the raft. We pulled her back up, but there was no hope of anyone staying dry from that point forward.
This is the beginning of Songkran, the Thai new year festival. The river banks were lined with vacationing Thai families hanging out on bamboo platforms over the water or swimming, floating around. It was a very festive atmosphere. The hallmark of Songkran is WATER. Hoses, buckets, water balloons, super soakers, etc. I'm sure the water holds some cultural/religious significance, but the truth is that the new year falls smack dab in the middle of hot season and people are desperate to cool off. As we were floating down the river, people were splashing us and dousing us with buckets of water. It's not just a river activity. Starting tomorrow, it will be nearly impossible to stay dry in Chiang Mai. The 4 moats that form a neat square border around the old city will be drained for water fights and the city will erupt in a drunken free-for-all. I'm heading out of town, but I've been warned to expect to get wet wherever I go in Thailand over the next few days.
Muay Thai Night
I'm not usually into brutality, but Muay Thai boxing is the country's national sport so I felt compelled to check it out. As I walked through a rather seedy part of town (of course, that implies there aren't seedy parts of town) to get there, I began asking myself, "what the hell are you doing?" I ask myself that a lot these days. The boxing ring was set up in a big outdoor area (but it had a roof), down an alleyway of bars and then surrounded by more open-air bars. The ticket got you a seat in a picnic table near the ring. The hostesses/waitresses were transvestites who also performed a cabaret act before the fights began. Thailand is very famous for its ladyboys. Some of them look pretty convincing (if the Adam's apple is removed), but the voice usually gives it away. The Thai culture is generally pretty tolerant. Just as you always here "sweet as" in NZ, you always hear "same same" in Thailand. It basically means: "Who cares? Doesn't matter? No difference."
Back to the main event... the atmosphere and setting were so much fun. I felt like I was in a movie. I met a really nice Australian couple and hung out with them for most of the night. I think they picked up on my NZ vibe :) I wasn't sure that I would enjoy Muay Thai, but I ended up staying until midnight. The fights were strangely mesmerizing. For the "halftime" entertainment, they put 4 blindfolded guys in the ring and let them go crazy. It involved a lot of air-punching.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
